AMADABLAM (6812M)EXPEDISJON Okt./Nov.2019 6858 moh
+ LOBUCHE PEAK (6119) og klatretrening PÅ CHOLA-BREEN
Repr. fra Høyfjellspesialisten: Repr. fra Høyfjellspesialisten: Ekspedisjonsleder:
Marit Andreassen Monica V. Carter Saran Subba
Amadablam is undoubtly one of the most stunningly beautiful mountains in the world and every climbers dream. It is the most impressive peak along the Everest trail. Every person who has trekked in the Everest region has without a doubt taken numerous pictures of this impressive mountain which is the heart of this region. Ama Dablam was first climbed in 1961 by a New Zealand and American team, via the SW Ridge. This Expedition offers the summit of this stunningly beautiful mountain along with an ice climbing course on a semi technical trekking peak called Lobuche East (6119m). Ama Dablam is a technical climb with 5th class rock with a couple of rocky sections of 5.7 at 6000m +. We ascend via the SW ridge which is an exposed rock ridge dotted with towers and interesting climbing sections. Once established in Base Camp we move to Camp 1 (5,800m) via a long slope to the bottom of the SW Ridge. The technical climbing begins from here and the route follows a rock ridge to the infamous Yellow Tower, which immediately proceeds to Camp II just above 6000m. The route from Camp II to Camp III (6280m) climbs through an exciting mixed rock and ice section via the Grey Couloir. The very exposed nature of the route makes this an exciting climbing. On summit day we climb a steep icy slope, between the ice cliffs then follow a snow crag leading onto the summit. We encourage climbers with moderate technical experience to attempt this route for an experience of a lifetime. However, participants are required to have past rock and steep snow climbing experience on exposed terrain. It is mandatory that our participants are in excellent physical condition.
Avreisedatoen er ikke helt klar ennå, men det blir sannsynligvis rundt 15 oktober.Programmet er satt til 34 dager. Dette er et solid gjennom-prøvd program som Saran bruker igjen og igjen.
Program detail:We begin our expedition with a scenic mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2850m) and follow the Everest trail to Namche Bazar. Then we trek towards the Gokyo Valley acclimatizing along the way and climb Gokyo Ri for stunning views of Everest and the surrounding peaks. We will spend a day at the top of the Cho La glacier where there is a brilliant ice wall to train and refresh your climbing skills and techniques. After a night at Cho La, we set up base camp of Lobuche peak. We will summit and sleep at the summit of Lobuche peak at 6119m for acclimatization. A few days walk down the valley to Pangboche and a rest day here give us renewed strength and focus for the main objective, that is Amadablam. Amadablam Base Camp is at (4700m) is on a beautiful grassy meadow. The guides and Sherpas will fix rope on the route and stock the camps with provisions and equipment. When the fixed line is in place, and the two camps are established and stocked, we will begin our ascent progressing towards Camp I, Camp II, Camp III and make a bid for the summit. Guides and Sherpas will carry all group gear but members are expected to carry their own personal gear. Radios and Satellite phones will be used to co-ordinate between the climbers and the Sherpas and Base Camp to provide a safety back-up if necessary.
Ekspedisjonslederen:Saran Subba, er opprinnelig fra Darjeling i India. Han snakker utmerket engelsk. Saran er meget flink som leder, og han har vært mange ganger på toppen av Amadablam.
Style of climbing: Saran emphasizes on safety and at the same time help as many team members as possible reach their goal. We ensure a cautious climbing, with excellent leadership, organization and Sherpa climbers support. We provide the best equipment available along with an excellent logistic and technical support providing `walkie-talkie` radios, satellite telephones, cooks and kitchen staff, healthy food, medical oxygen, gamow bag, extensive medical kit, top quality climbing accessories.
On the Mountain: We have highly experienced Climbing Sherpas, and we provide one climbing Sherpa between two climbers. Our Sherpas will fix the route, set up the higher camps, as well as carry the group equipment, such as tents, stoves, food etc. They also help with high altitude equipment transport, carrying your extra weight both up and down the mountain. You do not need to carry a heavy rucksack during the climb. For an additional expense, we can also provide personal sherpas and climbing-guides to individual members who wish to have their own private sherpa.
Cooks and Food: Our skillful and hard working cooks prepare three hot meals each day with a very healthy diet of fresh vegetables, cheeses, eggs, and fresh meat as well, tinned fruits, tinned meats and fish (all meats and fish are prepared separately out of respect for the vegetarians in our midst) and a high dose of carbohydrates from breads, rice and pastas. We have weatherproof kitchens and heated dining tents, with comfortable chairs and tables.
In Kathmandu: Each meal will cost around 4 to 6 US$. Plus 10 to 20 US $ for your taxis if you wish to go around the city
On trek: you will need around 5 to 6 US $ per day. This money is for your hot showers, chocolates, soft drinks and beers etc and also for small donations in the monasteries.
Tipping : Although tipping is entirely optional and personal matter the following is recommended as a guideline
In Kathmandu: for bellboys, waiters and porters 50 to 100 Nepali Rupees
On the trek: At the End of the trek it is a customary to tip the field staff. The recommended amount is 4 to 5 US$ / day depending on group size. The Group leader will organize that for you. PN-Climbing Sherpa Bonus is extra which is 250 USD/ member as a summit bonus.
Pris: 98 000,- (Vi tar forbehold om endringer i pris iforhold til deltaker antall
Our Services : • Domestic airfares to Lukla and back.
• Services of English or/and Swedish speaking guide.
• Porter’s and Sherpa’s assistance.
• 5 nights in tourist class hotel on bed and breakfast basis while in Kathmandu.
• Welcome dinner.
• Lobuche Peak climbing permit.
• Amadablam climbing permit.
• Liaison officer’s fees.
• Full board lodge trek with all meals while on trek.
• All camping and kitchen facilities.
• All meals while on Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp.
• Single tents for each member while at Base Camp
• Hilleberg Saivo tents on twin sharing while at higher camps.
• All mountaineering equipment, including ropes, fixing gear, stoves and fuel,
• Radios and “walkie talkies” and satellite phone for emergency purpose.
• Emergency use of Pressure bag (Gamow bag) and medical oxygen cylinders.
• Comprehensive medical kit
• Staff insurance, tourist service fee and all taxes applicable as per state law.
Not Included : Fly tur/retur Norge (Er behjelpelig med å finne gode/billige ruter) • Personal accident and rescue insurance. You must provide your own rescue insurance
• Mineral water, beer, soft drinks and extra tea/coffee outside of normal meal times.
• Private room accommodation in Kathmandu unless a single supplement is paid.
• Optional tips to guides and porters.
• 250 USD/ member for Sherpa summit bonus.
• Visa costs. (100 USD)
• Helicopter evacuation in the unlikely situation, although we do arrange for it and make the necessary documents so that you can claim from your insurance.
Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu (1330m), welcome dinner.
Day 2. Free day to prepare for expedition
Day 3. Briefing at the Ministry of Tourism
Day 4. Fly to Lukla (2830m) and trek to Benkar (2700m).
Day 4. Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m).
Day 5. Rest day at Namche Bazaar.
Day 6. Trek to Dole (4.80m)
Day 7. Trek to Machermo (4300m)
Day 8. Trek to Gokyo (4700m)
Day 9. Rest and acclimatization day at Gokyo
Day 10. Trek to Thangna (4700m)
Day 11. Trek to Cho la glacier (5420m) –Khumbu Ice clinic training at Cho La
Day 12. Trek to Lobuche peak BC (4900m)
Day 13. High camp (5300m)
Day 14. Summit Lobuche Peak and sleep at the summit. (6110m)
Day 15. Climb down to Lobuche Peak Base Camp and trek to Thukla (4670m)
Day 16. Trek to Pangboche (3900m)
Day 17. Rest Day at Pangboche
Day 18. Trek to Amadablam Base Camp (4700m)
Day 19. Rest day at Amadablam Base Camp
Day 20. Trek to ABC
Day 21. Ascend to Camp 1.
Day 22. Ascend to Camp 2.
Day 23. Ascend to Camp 3. (looking at the condition/ might go from Camp 2)
Day 24. Summit
Day 25. Summit
Day 26. Summit
Day 27. Summit
Day 28. Back to Base Camp
Day 29. Pack up Base Camp and trek to Pangboche
Day 30. Trek to Namche Bazaar
Day 31. Trek to Lukla
Day 32. Fly to Kathmandu
Day 33. In Kathmandu
Day 34. Departure